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    No need to take the body off • Smooth black gelcoat finish underneath
    No need to undercoat • These under lap and bolt in, using your original bolts around the outer perimeter, self-tapping sheet metal screws & washers for along the shift tunnel • No holes have been drilled.

    If you purchased the HARDWARE PACKAGE: Includes self-tapping sheet metal screws, washers, 50 year black silicone sealant; enough for both sides "holes must be pre-drilled for screws, and bolts.

    Really Easy Instructions

    You'll need:

    • 4 Jack stands
    • Sawsall (this is a cutting tool that can be rented at any equipment rental place, we do not recommend using a torch to cut away metal.)
    • Several extra fine-tooth blades for cutting out the old floors.
    • 2 Drills: One to drill holes with 1/8" drill bit, and the other one to drill in screws with phillips screwdriver drill bit. Note: Having 2 drills (borrow another one from a friend) makes it easier to put in the screws right after drilling each hole, so you don't have to change the drill bit back and forth.
    • Little container to hold the old bolts you take out from old floors.
    • Our HARDWARE KIT you purchased from us, or about 100 10 x æ flathead phillips self-tapping sheet metal screws, 100 º flat washers, 50 year black silicone sealant suitable for this purpose (NOT the bathtub stuff!)
    • One really nice person to help you.

    VERY IMPORTANT FIRST: Hold the new NEVER RUST FLOOR PAN up underneath your car, so you can see where they land. This will show you exactly how they go in, and how much to cut, or not cut away of the old metal floor.

    SECOND: Take out the battery, seats, seatbelts, carpet, insulation and all that yuk that accumulated down there. It also makes it easier if you remove the pedal assembly. Remember, to reinstall it, you must loosen the clutch cable tension and re-adjust the clutch. (Check your VW repair manual). There is no need to take the body off. Jack the car up, setting 2 jackstands under the front suspension, and 2 under the rear suspension, making sure car is stable.

    HELPFUL HINT: We suggest doing the passenger side first. It's better to make your mistakes on that side. Also, if you need to use the car the next day , and it is taking longer than expected, you can still drive it. If it is absolutely necessary to drive with the passenger side floor out, BE SURE to temporarily re-install the bolts around the outer perimeter before driving.

    Another HELPFUL HINT:
    If your seat tracks are in good shape, and you will use your original seats, cut around them, leaving the tracks completely intact. The new floor will underlap underneath the seat track area, with maybe a slight bow underneath. It is almost impossible to remove VW original seat tracks, and then replace them lined up well enough to make the seats work right again. (See notes below on other options for seat applications)

    THIRD: Unbolt around the outer perimeter, those bolts that actually attach the body to the pan. (Until you remove A LOT of other stuff, the body will not come loose.) Cut along the shift tunnel, using the Sawsall, to remove the floor completely.

    Have that really nice person, hold the new floor pan up from underneath, while you drill holes from under the car. Then install the original bolts that you saved from old floors.

    FIFTH: From underneath, drill holes thru the floor pan into the shift tunnel area, about every 2 inches. Now you can screw in the self-tapping sheet metal screws, along with the washers as you go.

    SIXTH: Use silicone sealant around the inside seam, as well as around the outside seam underneath the car.

    NOTE: For those of you, who need to use new seats, (or would rather have the nice cushy ones that recline, etc.) - Two pieces of 1 ½" angle iron can be welded from the shift tunnel to the door frame, like an upside sown "L". One piece goes across the front of the seat, the other across the back. Drill holes for the seat's bolts to go thru. New after market seats (Scatt etc.) or seats from other cars (Nissan, Honda, Toyota, etc.) can be bolted to the angle iron. This is safer, as in the event of an accident, you are anchored to the frame and strength of the VW, rather than to the floor, metal, or not. This is also much easier and less expensive than reattaching original seat tracks.

    Remember, if you have any questions, call us. We are happy to assist you!


    SPEAKER PANELS by Glass Action LLC

    Fits up to 7" diameter speakers (or 5 ½" with 1" tweeters, etc.) Depending on which car you have, there will be 3" to 4" of space behind the Speaker Panel, 2" to 3" on convertibles.

    Really Easy Instructions

    You'll need:

    • 40 grit sandpaper
    • Jigsaw with a fine blade
    • Electric drill with 1/8" bit
    • Phillips screwdriver (or drill with phillips screwdriver bit)
    • Template for your speaker (usually comes with your system)
    • Pieces of cardboard to practice on

    1)Decide whether you will mount Speaker Panels over or under existing or new carpet, then…

    2) Pre-fit the Speaker Panel up against your kick panel area above the heater channel. Some trimming may be required simply by using sandpaper. We recommend putting insulation, carpet or some type of pad behind the speaker, up against the metal kick panel area of your car. This makes your system "sound" better.

    3)Once you are satisfied with the fitting of the speaker panel and its ready to install, you can now insert your speakers:

    First, cut out the hole using the template, or practice on cardboard. If you drill the hole too big, then you'll have to buy another set and start over again. It is best to cut out the hole with the jigsaw, smaller than the template shows, them use sandpaper to make your speaker fit perfectly.

    Mount your speakers, tweeter, etc. into the Speaker Panel.

    4) Now, drill 4 holes, one at each comer using a drill with 1/8" bit. Hold the panel exactly where you previously pre-fit, and drill thru the panel and the metal kick panel of your car. Then screw the 4 screws (included) into both, with a screwdriver (or drill with phillips screwdriver bit). Note: Bonding or attaching the speaker panel to your kick panel area without screws, will not allow access to your speaker, if you ever need to get to it. Carpet over if you choose.

    Remember, if you have any questions, call us. We are happy to assist you! All rights reserved.
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